A silk press gives natural hair a smooth, swinging finish with heat instead of chemicals. Here is how it differs from a relaxer, how to make it last and how to find a stylist who treats your hair with care.
What is a silk press?
A silk press is a way to straighten natural hair with heat alone. A stylist usually washes and conditions your hair, blow-dries it smooth, then works through small sections with a flat iron. The goal is hair that looks sleek and moves freely, without a stiff or heavy feel.
Because no chemical is used to change the hair, a silk press is temporary. When your hair gets wet, it starts to return to its natural curl or coil pattern. That is a big part of the appeal: you can wear your hair straight for a while, then go back to your texture on your own schedule.
Silk presses are most often done on curly, coily and kinky hair, but the same steps can smooth wavy hair, too.
What is the difference between a silk press and a relaxer?
A relaxer is a chemical treatment. It changes the hair it touches, so relaxed hair stays straight until it grows out or is cut off. New growth comes in with your natural texture, which is why relaxers need touch-ups at the roots.
A silk press uses heat only, so washing brings your texture back. The trade-off is time: a silk press has to be redone, while a relaxer lasts on the hair it was applied to.
If you do choose a relaxer, the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) suggests having it applied by a professional, doing touch-ups only every two to three months, applying it only to new growth and never relaxing hair that is already relaxed (AAD tips for Black hair).
Some people also choose heat-only styling for health reasons. In the Sister Study, a National Institutes of Health study of more than 33,000 women, those who said they used chemical hair straightening products more than four times in the past year were more than twice as likely to develop uterine cancer as women who never used them (NIH). The researchers point out that uterine cancer is relatively rare, that the study did not look at specific brands or ingredients, and that more research is needed to confirm the findings (NIEHS). If you have questions about your own health, ask your doctor.
How is a silk press different from a keratin treatment?
Keratin and other smoothing treatments sit somewhere in between. A smoothing solution is applied to the hair and then sealed in with a flat iron. Unlike a silk press, the results don't wash out the first time your hair gets wet; they fade over time. It is still a chemical service, and depending on the product and method it can loosen your curl pattern.
Some hair smoothing products release formaldehyde gas when they are heated, according to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. If you are considering one, the FDA suggests asking your stylist whether the product contains formaldehyde, whether the salon is well ventilated and whether a formaldehyde-free option is available (FDA).
A silk press skips smoothing solutions altogether. It does rely on heat, though, so it needs care of its own. If you want to compare options, read about keratin smoothing before you book.
Can a silk press cause heat damage?
It can, if the heat is too high or used too often. The AAD notes that no matter your hair type, excessive heat can damage your hair (AAD).
During the appointment, speak up if the iron feels too hot near your scalp or you smell burning hair. After you wash, watch how your hair behaves. One sign people look for is curls that don't spring back to their usual pattern, or sections that stay limp and straight. If you notice that, tell your stylist before your next press. They may suggest a break from heat, a lower temperature or a trim.
If you notice thinning, breakage near the scalp or bald patches, see a board-certified dermatologist. The AAD notes that the sooner hair loss is looked at, the better the results tend to be.
To keep heat in check, the AAD's everyday tips for Black hair include:
- Apply a heat-protecting product before styling.
- Use a ceramic flat iron or comb, and choose one with a dial so it doesn't get too hot.
- Use the lowest temperature that gives you the style you want. Thicker, coarser hair may need a higher setting.
- Limit hot combs and flat irons to once a week.
How long does a silk press last?
A silk press lasts until your hair gets wet enough to go back to its natural texture. Water, sweat, steam and humid weather all speed that up. How long yours holds depends on your hair, your climate, your routine and how well you protect it.
Many people plan a press around wash day, since washing ends the style. The AAD's tips for Black hair suggest washing once a week or every other week to keep product from building up. Touching up with a flat iron between washes adds more heat, so if your press is fading, try a fresh wrap or a loose style before reaching for the iron.
How do you protect a silk press at night and in humid weather?
A few simple habits help your press stay smooth:
- Wrap it. Many people comb their hair around the head and tie it down with a satin or silk scarf before bed.
- Cover it. The AAD notes that satin or silk bonnets or pillowcases may reduce friction while you sleep (AAD).
- Keep water out. Wear a shower cap when you bathe, and keep a scarf or umbrella handy on rainy days.
- Plan for sweat. Sweat at the roots can undo a press quickly, so a loose bun or headband can help on workout days.
- Go light on products. Heavy oils and creams can weigh pressed hair down. Ask your stylist what to use and how much.
How do you find a silk press stylist near you?
Look for a stylist who works with textured hair often and shows it. Photos of silk presses on hair like yours, including how the hair moves, say more than a gallery of blowouts on straight hair. In reviews, look for comments about hair health over time, not just how it looked leaving the salon.
In many states you can look up a salon or stylist license online, and our guide to checking a salon license shows how. A license shows someone met the state's requirements; it isn't a quality rating. When you're ready, find a salon near you and compare a few stylists.
Before you book, ask:
- How often do you do silk presses on hair with my texture?
- What heat protectant do you use, and how do you choose the iron temperature?
- Do you wash and condition first, and is a trim included?
- How long is the appointment, and what does the price include?
- What should I do if my curls don't come back after I wash?
Questions people ask
How long does a silk press last?
It lasts until your hair gets wet enough to revert, whether from washing, sweat, steam or humidity. Many people plan a press around wash day. Wrapping your hair at night and keeping it dry help it last.
Will a silk press change my curl pattern?
It isn't meant to. A silk press uses heat only, so your hair should return to its natural texture after washing. Too much heat, or pressing too often, can damage hair, and damaged sections may not curl the way they used to. A heat protectant, the lowest temperature that works and breaks from heat all reduce the strain.
What is the difference between a silk press and a blowout?
A blowout uses a blow-dryer and brush to smooth and shape hair. A silk press usually starts with a blow-dry, then adds a flat iron for a sleeker, straighter finish. Both are temporary. Learn more about blowouts.
Is a silk press the same as a relaxer?
No. A relaxer is a chemical treatment that keeps the treated hair straight until it grows out. A silk press uses heat only, so your natural texture returns when your hair is washed.
When should I see a dermatologist?
If you notice thinning, breakage near the scalp, scalp pain or bald patches, see a board-certified dermatologist. The AAD notes that earlier care tends to give better results.
