Hair Extensions: Types, Upkeep and What to Ask

Extensions can add length, volume or both, but each method attaches, lasts and wears differently. Here is a plain guide to the main types, the upkeep and how to protect your own hair.

What are the main types of hair extensions?

Extensions are strands or strips of human or synthetic hair attached to your own hair. A strip of hair joined along one thin edge is called a weft. The main methods differ in how they attach and how long they stay in:

• Clip-in: wefts with small clips that snap onto your hair. You put them in and take them out yourself, often just for a day or an evening.
• Halo: a single weft on a thin, clear wire that sits on your head like a headband, with your own hair brushed over the wire. It comes off at the end of the day.
• Tape-in: thin wefts with adhesive tape, pressed onto small sections of your hair close to the scalp. A stylist applies and removes them.
• Sew-in (weft or weave): wefts sewn onto your hair, usually onto braids or onto a row of small beads.
• Keratin bond (fusion or K-tip): small strands with a keratin-based tip that is bonded to a small section of your hair, usually with heat.
• Micro-link, micro-bead or I-tip: small strands attached with a tiny bead or ring that is clamped around your hair, without glue or heat.

Which type of hair extension is right for you?

The right choice depends on your hair, your routine and how long you want to wear them. Clip-ins and halos are a low-commitment way to try extra length or volume, and you decide when they're in. Semi-permanent methods stay in for weeks at a time but need salon visits to apply, maintain and remove.

Your own hair matters most. Fine or fragile hair may not handle the weight or tension of some methods. A careful stylist will look at your hair's thickness and condition before suggesting a method, and will tell you if extensions aren't a good idea right now.

Ask about the hair itself, too. Human hair and synthetic hair look, feel and handle heat and color differently. Ask where the hair comes from, whether you can heat-style or color it and whether the price includes the hair. Names and methods also vary by salon, so ask your stylist to explain exactly how theirs attaches and comes out.

How long do hair extensions last?

There are two questions here: how long the extensions stay in between appointments, and how long the hair itself can be used. Both depend on the method, the hair quality and your care routine. Ask your stylist for both answers before you book.

Clip-ins and halos come out every day, and with good care the hair can be worn again and again. Semi-permanent methods stay in until your stylist moves them up or takes them out. Some hair can be reused for another round, and some can't, so ask.

Dermatologists also recommend breaks. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) suggests wearing weaves and extensions for two or three months at most, then giving your hair a rest with a style that doesn't use extensions. Ask your stylist how breaks fit with the method you choose.

What is a move-up appointment?

Your hair keeps growing, so semi-permanent extensions slowly move away from your scalp. At a move-up, your stylist loosens or removes the extensions, prepares your hair and reattaches them closer to the root. Depending on the method, that may mean fresh tape, re-clamped beads or new braids for a sew-in.

Ask how often your method needs a move-up, how long each visit takes and what it costs. Those visits are part of the real price of extensions, so it helps to know them up front.

How do you take care of hair extensions?

Your stylist will give you a routine for your method. These habits help with most types:

• Brush gently with the brush your stylist suggests, holding the hair near the attachment so you don't pull on your scalp.
• Keep your own hair and scalp clean. The AAD suggests washing as needed for your hair type, avoiding product buildup and conditioning regularly.
• Take clip-in extensions out before you wash your natural hair, as the AAD advises.
• Go easy on heat. The AAD suggests avoiding heated tools when possible to protect your hairline.
• Before bed, take out clip-ins and halos, and put semi-permanent extensions in a loose braid so they don't tangle.
• Keep oils and heavy conditioners away from tape and bonds unless your stylist says they're fine.
• Don't take out semi-permanent extensions yourself. Pulling them out the wrong way can break your own hair.

Can hair extensions damage your hair?

They can if they're too tight, too heavy or worn too long. The AAD lists tight extensions and weaves among the styles that can cause traction alopecia, a type of hair loss caused by repeated pulling. The AAD notes that traction alopecia can become permanent the longer it goes untreated.

Pain is a warning sign. If you feel pain or get a headache, the AAD says the style is too tight, and you can ask your stylist to loosen it. Other signs to watch for include stinging or crusts on your scalp, broken hairs around your forehead, a receding hairline or thin patches where hair is pulled.

The method matters. The AAD suggests choosing sewn-in weaves over glued ones. Johns Hopkins researchers have noted that extensions attached with glue directly on the scalp can cause breakage, and that weaves and extensions carry more risk on chemically treated hair.

If you notice thinning or hair loss, see a board-certified dermatologist. The AAD says the sooner a problem is addressed, the better.

How do you find a good hair extension specialist?

Start with a consultation. A careful stylist will look at your hair, ask about your routine and how long you want to wear extensions, and explain why one method suits you better than another. Our salon consultation guide has more questions to bring.

Check training and licensing, too. Many extension methods come with their own hands-on training and certificate. That training is useful, but it isn't the same as a state license, and the rules for who can apply extensions differ by state. You can check a stylist's or salon's license with your state board.

Then compare extension salons near you, and ask each one:

• Which methods do you offer, and why do you suggest this one for me?
• Have you trained in this method, and how long have you been doing it?
• Can I see photos of your extension work on hair like mine?
• Where does the hair come from, and does the quote include it?
• How often will I need move-ups, and what does each one cost?
• How are they removed, and is removal included?

Questions people ask